'Between sea and sky' in the hills behind Nice, this well-known village perché is up a winding road, on a rocky spur. At its gates, the Millo family's 'rather special' hotel has a 'wonderful setting'. Service is 'friendly but professional, with a hint of humour', said one guest. Others wrote of 'stunning food, elegantly presented'. Père et fils, Christian and Thomas Millo present, eg, gratin de macaroni au foie gras et truffes; carré d'agneau rôti au fleur de thym. Guests dine in the pink-beamed restaurant or on the broad, flowery terrace with a view of the valley. House wines are fairly priced. Bedrooms have tiled floors, pastel colours, Provençal fabrics, rustic furniture; many are spacious, and have a balcony facing the panorama. Antiques are on landings and in odd corners. Breakfast, with cakes and strong coffee, is in a room with chandeliers and velvet drapes. Six simpler bedrooms are in the annexe, Lou Pourtail.