You cross an old clapper bridge over Malham Beck to reach England’s first 100 per cent plant-based hotel. It began life in 1705 as a yeoman’s cottage, became a wayfarers’ hostel in the 1930s, has been sensitively extended, and is a labour of love for owners Andrew and Louise Macbeth. Bedrooms, in the original cottage and annexe, have bags of character, with a mix of contemporary comforts and quirky artefacts picked up by the hostel owner. Kids and dogs are made welcome. On cold days a fire blazes in a panelled snug. With trifold doors, the restaurant opens onto a waterside terrace. All meals – from chai latte porridge and tofu scramble at breakfast, to dishes such as burgers, North Indian thali and white bean cacciatore – are vegan, and we have no beef with that.