High above the Isarco valley between Bressanone and Bolzano, this hamlet consists of le tre chiese, three curious little attached medieval churches and this unspoilt 14th-century chalet, now a modest hotel. Run by Matthias Wodenegg ('all goodness', says a fan), with his wife, Annette, it has been owned by his family for 200 years. 'Everything revolves around nature,' they write. 'No television, telephones or automobiles.' The hotel can only be reached by taxi. Arriving guests are met at the car park in Barbiano, a small tourist village. 'Herr Wodenegg took us on a hair-raising journey in his minibus up the mountain.' Or you can arrive on foot, 'an exhilarating half-hour uphill trek'. There are 'spectacular views' of the valley on one side, Castle Trostburg on the other side. Around are meadows, mountains, streams and woods. 'All is constructed of wood,' say recent guests. 'Our room at the back looked on to the three ancient churches. We loved the scrubbed pine floors, the vases of wild flowers. The swimming pool is tastefully placed, and the public areas are excellent.' Earlier visitors admired the 'beautiful hand-painted furniture' in their bedroom and its large terrace 'where we could sit and admire the scenery'. There is a library, a lounge with a grand piano, and a spacious panoramic veranda. For dinner there is a choice between Tyrolian and Italian cooking. There is excellent walking all around.