In south Dalmatia, this ancient stone-built fishing village is off the main coast road north-west of Dubrovnik. It is 'quiet, and gorgeous, with lots of narrow streets suitable only for pedestrians'. On the waterfront, the Kralj family's old stone home is now an elegant little hotel, managed by Zeljko Kralj and his wife Lidija and their family. 'A delightful setting, very friendly welcome, good-quality fittings,' say visitors this year. Some bedrooms are small; the best ones have a sea view. 'All are beautifully furnished, and have shutters against the summer sun.' Other praise: 'The English-speaking staff looked after us well.' 'Excellent buffet breakfasts, on the terrace: delicious mountain ham.' The family own two restaurants: the Mlinica on the hotel ground floor, and the Kapetanova Kuca on the waterfront: it specialises in local fish and seafood, such as the region's famed oysters. 'The harbour, close by, is a nursery for shellfish and quite clean: you can swim from the hotel's jetty.'