Run by its owners, Brigitte and Jacques Maupin, this 17th-century château stands by the upper Saône, in a village outside Gray. “The approach is unpromising,” says a visitor this year. “When you enter a shady courtyard through tall wrought iron gates, the balanced facade of the pale stone building comes as a surprise. The welcome is polite, the scented flowers in the hall are voluptuous. The feel is of slightly faded grandeur, more home than hotel. No lift: our second-floor room, up wide wooden stairs, was cool and quiet, with a huge bathroom.” Another guest loved the park, with its statues, stream, bridges, ducks, “peaceful atmosphere, super swimming pool”. There is a terrace for drinks and meals; also two ornate dining rooms. “Food was copious (delicious pintade), not expensive for such splendid surroundings. Service was slow. Madame constantly made sure all was well. On a hot night, some of the staff looked uncomfortable, others were friendly. Upkeep must be demanding; some repairs were a bit makeshift.” Breakfast is in a “curious glass room, like a Paris café” which has “an efficient machine for boiling eggs”.