On a cliff-top road outside an old fishing village just south of the Cinque Terre, this restaurant-with-rooms is run by its “very helpful owners”, chef Alessandrio Cabani and his wife, Giovanna. “He executes his art with style and flourish,” said a recent visitor, “she is the versatile maître d”; their enormously nice son, Alessandro, runs the front desk.” Others wrote: “Soigné but not at all grand.” “Our lovely room had two balconies overlooking the Golfo dei Poeti.” “The cooking was an education: fine ingredients, subtle sauces”: only fish and pasta are served. “Signor Cabani took care not to repeat any fish dish over a week — quite an achievement!” There is a huge, well-priced wine list. Breakfast is “delicious too: freshly squeezed juices and home-made bread”. The hotel is on the road to Tellaro, where it ends: “No drive-through traffic,” we are assured.