In a 'lovely, tranquil” setting, this stately, white-fronted 17th-century demeure (Relais & Chateaux) stands amid garden and parkland, between Reims and Soissons. Napoleon met Marie-Louise of Austria here, and it was 'much enjoyed' by Guide correspondents. Jean Cocteau designed the staircase banister. The public rooms have 'quaint old-fashioned charm'. Most bedrooms and bathrooms are spacious. All but two rooms look over the park: best ones have luxurious furnishings and a fine ceiling. In the beamed restaurant hung with chandeliers,the chef, Lucas Vannier,serves modern, seasonal cooking. The list of champagnes is long, and breakfast is a buffet. There”s a pleasant conservatory and terrace dining for summer meals and a heated swimming pool beside the terrace.