Against a background of the craggy Dentelles de Montmirail, this old-fashioned hotel has a superb setting high in a wooded valley, near some of the best Côtes du Rhône vineyards. Some, more 'modest' accommodation is in an annexe. 'Thierry and Dominique Bernard [the third-generation owners] are perfect hosts,' say returning fans. 'Welcome as warm as ever.' Residents are expected to dine in. Summer meals are served on the flowery terrace, or in cooler weather guests are seated inside at Le Table des Florets, where chef Jean-Pierre Minery serves elegant and inventive local cuisine. There is a choice of two excellent set menus as well as an a la carte menu, and a children's menu is available. The 'excellent selection of local wines' includes some from M. Bernard's prize-winning vineyards. 'Lavender fields, a scent of flowers. Silence reigns.' Thierry speaks good English, the rest of the staff not so much.