'Charming as ever,' says a visitor, returning to this 16th-century stone mas in vineyards and lavender fields in rolling country east of the Rhône valley. 'No airs and graces, casual and welcoming. The grounds are a joy, just what a true Provençal estate should be.' There is statuary, a massive plane tree, tables and chairs dotted about, and a large swimming pool. The beamed and vaulted dining room is 'small and welcoming'; meals are served in the courtyard in fine weather. There is a tiny bar; furniture is 'rustic'. 'Our room, with white walls and pretty painted furniture, was blissfully warm (but there was some traffic noise). Breakfast with fluffy croissants served gracefully in the bedroom. Superb value.' Nearby is Mme de Sévigné's château at Grignan.