On the edge of the Altstadt, the Schmelzle family's 'pleasant hotel' is near Schloss Mirabell and the Kapuzinerberg. Some bedrooms (several have a balcony) look over the adjacent St Sebastian's church and Italianate cloister (where Mozart's father and widow lie buried). 'Staff were friendly; the receptionists spoke excellent English. All is quiet at night, but bell-ringing starts early,' wrote recent guests. 'Our mini-suite had a canopied bed, crystal chandeliers, a nice sitting area. The ceiling was studded with little lights like stars. Adequate breakfasts.' In the basement is a small swimming pool with murals, chlorine-free water and jet stream. The hotel offers free afternoon tea and coffee with homemade cake.