A more affordable sister to the Devonshire Arms – though no poor relation – this hotel, with 'a great location and commanding views over the River Wharfe' began life as a Victorian gentleman’s club. The Duchess of Devonshire’s design flair is evident throughout, with bold use of colour and striking landscapes by local artist Kitty North; the ground floor has been opened up, and together with the high ceilings, it leaves a 'satisfying, comfortable impression'. A trusted reader was given a warm welcome, complimentary tea and biscuits, and an upgrade to a room with 'wonderful views over the valley, a sitting room, two bathrooms'. All the bedrooms, from doubles to luxury kings and the dual-aspect Fells Suite, are immaculate, with an espresso machine and a selection of the Duke’s favourite books. Guests have access to the Bolton Abbey estate and the Devonshire Arms spa. You can take a cream tea (Devonshire, no doubt) in the conservatory which also serves bistro food such as fish and chips and steaks. Or dine in the Fell Restaurant on dishes such as Herdwick mutton with Marmite crumb. 'Cooking and service were excellent.' See also The Cavendish, Baslow, and The Devonshire Arms, Pilsley. (Bill Wood)