Don't be put off by this long, low, whitewashed country inn's location by the busy A6 in a 'nondescript village', says a Guide insider – a happy mix of pub informality and country-house comforts, it offers 'food that punches well above its weight' and smartly refurbished interiors. It is part of the Lowther Estate (see Askham Hall, Penrith), ‘so you can expect an experienced designer’s eye and top-notch food sourcing’. Revamped after a fire in 2022, it has ‘gone big on colour: juicy green wallpaper in the bar, rich teal in the dining room, proper upholstered dining chairs, polished wood tables, squishy old leather sofa in the flagged hall, Lowther portraits on the walls’. Bedrooms are compact, apart from two family rooms, but ‘really charming in a country-cottage sort of way’. Chef Paul Mckinnon makes almost everything from scratch, with ingredients sourced from the estate, in dishes such as char-grilled Askham pork cutlet with brandy sauce, and confit duck breast with plum and Askham chard. Expect 'restaurant quality rather than gastropub dishes', with set menus that include nibbles and bread providing a 'leisurely meal rather than quick pub eats'.