A ‘delightfully pretty village’, Cartmel’s culinary reputation rested on sticky toffee pudding until 2002, when visionary chef Simon Rogan opened this restaurant with rooms, now with three Michelin stars, in a 13th-century former smithy, and went at it hammer and tongs. Some of the bedrooms are upstairs, others dispersed around the village. These have ‘retro G-plan-style armchairs, grey carpets, careful points of colour in cushions, throws and headboards. Suites are more extravagant, often with a huge bathroom,’ reports our inspector. They are ‘warm and welcoming, very calming’, each with an espresso machine, but you come to L’Enclume above all for ‘a fabulous foodie experience – around 15 courses that look as exquisite as they taste’. Picture (if you can) cuttlefish in aged pork fat, Bay shrimp, Oscar peas and aromats; ‘the cutest caramel mousse sitting on layers of compressed apple’. The ambience is friendly and unstuffy. At one-star sister restaurant Rogan & Co, dishes are simpler ‘but show the same levels of craft – maybe Parmesan-crusted cod, grilled cauliflower, lovage and shrimp sauce’. Breakfast, served here, is ‘fun, too. A set menu deliciously combines tradition, savoury and sweet dishes – with cookies to take away.’