Down a two-mile country road, this ‘wonderfully imperious’ 19th-century Jacobethan gothic mansion is ‘a spoiling spa hotel' with parkland and golf course, writes our inspector. Within, it is ‘an impressive blend of vast mullioned windows, soaring ceilings, carved-oak fireplaces, stone arches, and modern-design furniture, flamboyant wallpapers, jewel-coloured velvet seating, cascading curtains.’ The bedrooms – most in a new wing – have the signature ‘modern elegance, powder-soft colours, a super-king or emperor bed’. Balcony rooms look onto the estate village and spa garden. Grand suites are ‘staggeringly big, with delicate plasterwork ceilings and the odd antique’. All have Penhaligon toiletries; most have a coffee machine. You can dine in book-lined Emerald Restaurant, where tasting menus include such ‘polished and creative dishes as venison with parsnip and plum; rhubarb with yoghurt and lovage’. In the full-height Cloisters there are ‘more straightforward modern British dishes’ – cod fillet with smoked pancetta; fennel and leek ragout… Keepers, in the clubhouse, offers pizzas and barbecued dishes, while a ‘pretty magnificent afternoon tea’ is just £39.50. The whole feels ‘smart but not smarmy. Staff pop up when needed, with a good dollop of northern friendliness.’