'In a nondescript little town', near picturesque Valence, 'Michel Chabran's hotel/restaurant is impossible to miss,' says a visitor. At the foot of the famous vineyards of Hermitage, where 'amazing' wines are produced, the 100-year-old house stands on a major road. It was bought by M. Chabran's grandparents as a café in 1935. Now, he has a Michelin star, 16 Gault Millau points for 'brilliant and subtle' dishes like St-Jacques sautées aux poireaux à l'huile de truffe; pigeonneau en cocotte et cuisse en pastilla. 'Monsieur is much in evidence; Madame is charming. You feel part of the family while staying here.' The dining room is 'warmly attractive'; summer meals are served in the small garden. Breakfast comes with home-made jams. The bedrooms (with double glazing) are all different; quietest ones face the garden.