First came the bad news (Pensons restaurant with rooms was closing), and then the good (it was going Native). The restaurant, with just two guest bedrooms, has been taken on by chef Ivan Tisdall-Downes and his business partner, Imogen Davis, with the team from Native restaurant, Covent Garden. It is part of the Netherwood Estate, a traditional farm committed to preserving the land's diverse ecology. Set lunches and dinner tasting menus are all about sustainability, seasonality and locality. You dine in a double-height converted 16th-century barn or alfresco, on dishes such as chalk stream trout, fermented turnip, miso caramel and lapsang; Middle White pork, green pepper and coriander. At Sunday lunch the nose-to-tail menu might bring roast Hereford beef or apple and mushroom Wellington with all the trimmings. Bedrooms are ‘compact but not cramped’ and ‘as carefully crafted as the cuisine’, with a super-king bed, a walk-through bathroom behind a statement headboard, fabrics from the estate mill, furniture from the joinery. At breakfast there is Japanese milk loaf with cultured butter, rhubarb and rosemary Danish pastries, homemade jams, smoked chalk stream trout, Middle White sausages with mushroom ketchup, and vegetarian alternatives.