The Buchanan family's 16th-century coaching inn offers a warm Yorkshire mix of traditional pub, smart food and modern bedrooms with character. Overlooking the market square, it's a popular locals' spot both for the ales in the fire-warmed bar and snug and the accomplished cooking. With most items, including bread and ice cream, made from scratch, chef Darren Clemmit delivers classic dishes with creativity but without pretension: perhaps a starter of venison terrine with homemade malt loaf followed by grilled sea bream with brown shrimps and salsa verde. There are pub standards, too. Meals are taken in the atmospheric dining room with candlesticks, polished tables and a fire. The extensive wine list, with its collection of St-Émilions, impressed one reader. Bedrooms in the main building have feature wallpapers, colourful fabrics and the occasional antique; one has a grand four-poster. More spacious and modern rooms with slate floors are in converted stables at the back. All have fresh milk and bathrobes. Breakfast is a feast including home-made granola, smoked haddock, mushrooms on brioche, plus a full Yorkshire.