In a market town between the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales, this pub with rooms deftly mixes historic charm – beams, crackling fires and exposed stonework – with an updated, modern touch. Step into a welcoming low-beamed, dog-friendly bar serving local ales, with light colours and a wood-burning stove; beyond is a smart dining area in soft greens and pale woods. Food includes pub classics as well as more adventurous dishes such as wine-glazed mackerel with dill cucumber, lime yoghurt and ginger crumb followed by braised featherblade with creamed mash and potato and leek terrine. Bedrooms, which have kept their original features, have been stylishly refurbished with handmade wooden furniture, local artwork, country colours and comfy chairs. A reader reported that rooms four and six were particularly good: spacious, with comfy chairs and bed, and great value. They loved the view over the churchyard from some of the rooms. Bright, white bathrooms, most with bath as well as shower, are stocked with sweet-smelling soaps from the local producer, Bath House. A generous buffet at breakfast is followed by well-prepared hot dishes.