'One of our very favourite stops in Scotland,' trusted readers love this restaurant with rooms occupying a Victorian terrace house, where they can be assured of fantastic food and warm welcome. In a coastal hamlet close to glorious Lunan Bay, the venture was launched in 1986 by Gordon and Maria Watson. Since Gordon's death in 2016, son Garry has manned the kitchen. Guests might take a drink in the walled garden before sitting down in the intimate dining room, with its log burner, bare stone wall, chandeliers, and wallpaper by edgy Glasgow designers Timorous Beasties. There is nothing timorous about the decor here, or Garry's tasting menus of locally farmed, fished and foraged ingredients. They might include dishes such as duck with beetroot meringue, pickled walnut and bitter leaves, or scallop with smoked mussel and sea herbs. Everything from breads to truffles are made in house. Bedrooms are emphatically modern, with a bold palette and are 'very well maintained'. The ground-floor courtyard suite has a free-standing roll-top bath and separate shower room. The gourmet breakfast does not disappoint. (A and SM)