Beneath the big skies of Caithness, wrapped in woodland and a curve of the River Forss, this Georgian mansion offers the grandeur of Scottish country-house living but with modern-day warmth and comforts – at superb rates in the low season. Staff are helpful; when a room with a low ceiling was given to a reader with a tall husband, they 'quickly made an excellent adjustment'. Bedrooms are contemporary with traditional touches: soft hues, large headboards, the occasional antique. Those in the main house have big windows overlooking the gardens, those in the lodges are more secluded, some close to the river (with excellent salmon fishing). All have modern bathrooms, the largest with freestanding baths. Relax in the clubby lounge with its panelled walls, chesterfields and tweedy armchairs before an 'outstanding' dinner served either in the richly decorated main room or light-filled conservatory. Perhaps kick off with Scrabster scallops followed by Scottish beef fillet with ox cheek. You can also enjoy a whisky flight. Breakfast is thoroughly Scottish, and includes porridge, grilled kippers, and scrambled eggs with double cream. (A and SM)