The feel of a Victorian country house in town prevails in Struan and Louise Lothian's friendly, well-run hotel with great food on the leafy edge of Pitlochry, with views to the Perthshire hills. 'A lovely hotel,' confirms our inspector. 'Traditional, formal, hushed tones in the lounge and dining room.' He checked into a large, dual-aspect room with both town and country views. Top-floor rooms are more modestly sized and have a balcony. Suites in a 1990s extension have a lounge, a coffee machine and drinks cooler, smart TV, a bath and walk-in shower. Dog-friendly rooms can be found in a new timber annexe, with underfloor heating and patio doors to a small private garden. On a cold night, settle in with a dram by the fire in one of two adjoining lounges. In the dining room, our inspector enjoyed 'beautifully cooked food' from a short, modern Scottish menu that changes daily. The highlight, though, was the strawberry consommé, with panna cotta and gin and tonic strawberry sorbet plus plenty of fresh fruit. At breakfast there are free-range eggs, smoked salmon, a full Scottish with potato scone, black pudding and haggis. This is hiking and biking country, and Pitlochry golf club is five minutes up the road.