On a cobbled street, on this island of wetlands, woodlands and sandy beaches, Julie-Anne Uggla's hotel impressed our inspectors in every aspect. Occupying a Georgian former pub and adjacent townhouse, it is ‘welcoming to all’. Bedrooms are a mix of vintage, modern, upcycled and bespoke furniture, original features and statement pendant lamps (‘no stinting on getting things looking good’). Le Huret has exposed brick and stone, a separate living space, and ensuite with freestanding bath. Burrow has a freestanding bath under the window and separate shower room. All have a mini-fridge, ‘generous hospitality supplies’, luxury Plum & Ashby toiletries. In a restaurant with bifold doors opening onto a furnished patio and ‘multi-terraced garden’, locally grown, farmed, fished and foraged ingredients appear in dishes such as lobster and line-caught fish bisque; salt marsh lamb, sea cooked potatoes, seakale, coast beets, sea buckthorn jus; butternut squash and beetroot risotto, blood orange balsamic, almond and pear salad, feta and watercress – ‘a delicious combination, which held their individual flavours’. At breakfast there are kippers in lemon butter, a full English or veggie with lentil and nut slice. ‘The whole place has a convivial atmosphere.’