It's proudly traditional and a bit dated but the sea views, the service, and unpretentious but beautifully done food makes this hotel a joy, says our inspector. 'Little wonder that families have been returning for decades.' The uninterrupted sea views come from its enviable location, high on a hilltop. New arrivals receive ‘a warm, friendly welcome… the perfect blend of familiarity and formality’, as they are enveloped in an ambience of ‘old-school customer service’. Bedrooms range from rear-facing singles to the most desirable, sea-facing balcony doubles. ‘The interiors are a little tired and outdated, but there’s a charm and comfort that goes with that. The views follow you through from the bar to the restaurant with windows spanning its length.’ Rotating set-price menus are ‘reassuringly limited’. Smoked salmon with fennel salad and caper dressing, tenderloin of pork with herb crust, prawn and caper butter, and crème caramel were all ‘beautifully done’. Steak, cold cuts, a vegetarian platter and crab salad are staples. ‘With its old-fashioned credentials this hotel is not for everyone, but the customer care and quality of the food are worth every penny.’