London-bound horse coaches would stop over at this whitewashed hostelry opposite the medieval village church, though today you can simply hop off the 465 Dorking-Kingston bus right outside. It’s a perfect blend of village local and gastropub with affordable, cottage-style bedrooms, from standard doubles to king, some with charming original features. All have a coffee machine, a rain-head shower, Bramley toiletries; two have a roll-top bath. In the restaurant, bar and on the terrace, the menu is an exemplary mix of small plates, pub classics, steaks, and dishes such as cauliflower steak with Puy lentil ragù; Fowey mussels with tomato, saffron and shellfish sauce. In the morning, like Jane Austen’s Emma, you might plan an ‘exploring’ trip to nearby Box Hill.