There is star quality indeed at Olga and Alex Polizzi's updated version of a historic Tudor inn, in a charming medieval South Downs village. The third venture in the Polizzi Collection (see Hotel Endsleigh and Tresanton), combines 'beautifully designed rooms that are functional and charming' with 'innovative cooking, sensible portions, good execution' and a large bar that 'still feels like a local'. Interiors are classic Polizzi, mixing contemporary flair and wit with antique shop finds, and nods to nature including lampshades with hand-painted birds, or door handles shaped like oak leaves. Dog-friendly ground-floor rooms in a 1960s wing, and those above with Juliet balcony, have floor-to-ceiling windows. There is a Mediterranean-style courtyard, a library with secret door into the 'handsome dining room with stencilled floor and wooden beams'. Here, and in the bar, menus include 'the lightest gnocchi', griddled sea bass or perhaps calf's liver. Each morning there is an attractive, tasty breakfast buffet along with unusual choices such as 'great black pudding with cabbage and onion hash'. Picnics can be ordered for Glyndebourne, a walk on the South Downs way or a day on the beach at Birling Gap. (T and G Ayers, T and S Mann, DR)