'The food is as fabulous as the setting' at this whitewashed former 17th-century coaching inn, huddled below wooded hills beside a stone bridge over the River Monnow. Our inspectors also loved the 'pleasant, warm and efficient vibe' created by the 'ubiquitous hotel manager, Maria and her helpers'. Smart interiors are a blend of original beams and exposed stonework with stripped-wood floors, bottle-green colours, polished rustic tables and spindle-back chairs. Leafy pot plants plus floor-to-ceiling windows in the dining area add to the light and relaxed atmosphere. Dine here or on the terrace on 'a mouthwatering array of dishes' of locally sourced food, such as pan roast Welsh Lamb rump, dauphinoise potato, Pak Choi cabbage, or Monmouthshire Pork tenderloin wrapped in Parma ham, with Welsh cheese to follow. The comprehensive wine list includes a good range by the glass. Bedrooms, named after fishing flies, are individually designed and furnished in soft colours, pretty fabrics and a mix of vintage and contemporary pieces. 'All are roomy and comfortable with gleaming, sophisticated bathrooms.' There is ground coffee, tea, fresh milk and homemade shortbread. Larger rooms have freestanding baths; all have views over garden, river or hills. There are six circular walks that can be taken from the door.