A spirit of fun infuses everything at this dog-friendly clifftop hotel on the South West Coast Path, with Fairyland subtropical seaward garden dotted with fanciful sculptures and statues – just the place for a cream tea. Each bedroom has its own character. The smallest, The Hoxton, tucked away under the stairs, is also the most affordable. The Featherington has a bespoke four-poster, the post-punk-themed Soho a Juliet balcony. The Muir has a silver sleigh bed, an egg-shaped bath and walk-in shower, glass doors to a sea-facing private terrace. A reader’s room was ‘large and comfortable. Everything you need is provided, fresh milk in a fridge much appreciated’. All have leaf tea, ground coffee, White Company toiletries. Among the long-serving and cheerful staff, head chef Glen Merriott began here as kitchen porter. He cooks a short, creative menu of dishes such as hake loin, rösti, crisp mussels, braised leeks, brown shrimp, warm tartare sauce. There is a nine-course tasting menu, and on Sundays there are roasts at lunch and dinner, with maybe mushroom ravioli and a fish dish. At breakfast there’s a full English, Scottish kipper, smashed avocado on sourdough. (SL)