There's a huge sense of fun at this stylish hotel, whose logo is Vanity Fair's caricature of the 9th Marquess of Queensberry, Oscar Wilde's Nemesis. Laurence and Helen Beere's hotel, a quirky combination of four townhouses, has pugilism-themed jokes throughout; the decor is knockout too. Junior suites, in former drawing rooms overlooking Russel Street, have floor-to-ceiling windows, an original fireplace, maybe Divine Savages' Crane Fonda or Portobello Parade wallpaper. Some suites have a seven foot square four-poster and a large bathroom with double shower. Club rooms are small but chic, and the use of colour is ravishing. Eight rooms at the top are air-conditioned. In the Michelin-starred Olive Tree restaurant, Chris Cleghorn's tasting menus pack a punch, perhaps starting with chalk-stream trout with Granny Smith apple, tonka bean and ginger before progressing through courses that might include Cornish lobster with lemon verbena, and Woolley Park Farm duck to strawberry and rhubarb with jasmine and puff pastry. There are menus for pescatarians, vegetarians, vegans, kids, and the dairy intolerant. Continental and cooked breakfasts include pastries, charcuterie, smoked haddock or salmon, a full English or full vegetarian.