The fun, hip, relaxed ethos of this pub with exceptional-value rooms on the edge of the Fonthill Estate is evident from the minute you walk in the door. Guide insiders couldn't believe the buzz when they arrived at this 'comfy, characterful place' in the afternoon, long after lunch. 'This is what a country pub should be, with its roaring fire, cosy corners, and staff exuding bonhomie.' It was created by Dan Brod, Charlie Luxton and Matt Greenlees (see The Talbot; The Lord Poulett Arms; The Bath Arms). There are eight 'simple, stylish' bedrooms, all supplied with homemade treats and Bramley toiletries. Attic rooms sleep a family. As well as two self-catering lodges on the estate, you can book the gatehouse of the estate's historic arch, a three-minute drive away. It is 'the pub's equivalent to a penthouse', with a spiral stone staircase linking sitting room and kitchen to an 'impressive master room with freestanding tub', and top-floor bunks room. Back at the pub, short menus offer choices such as beef cheek with parmesan polenta or hipsi cabbage with hazlenut picada followed by perhaps brownie with tonka bean ice cream. Breakfast includes home-baked bread and 'really delicious' local bacon and sausages.