'If they could bottle the atmosphere, they'd make a fortune,' writes a Guide insider, of this dining-pub with rooms on the edge of the Fonthill Estate. 'They' are Dan Brod, Charlie Luxton and Matt Greenlees (see The Talbot; The Lord Poulett Arms; The Bath Arms), who imbue characterful country inns with a fun, hip, relaxed ethos. 'This is what a country pub should be, with its roaring fire, cosy corners, and staff exuding bonhomie.' There are eight 'simple, stylish' bedrooms, all supplied with home-made treats and Bramley toiletries. Attic rooms sleep a family. As well as two self-catering lodges on the estate, you can now book the gatehouse of the estate's historic arch, a three-minute drive away. There, a spiral stone staircase links a sitting room and kitchen, a first-floor 'impressive master room with freestanding tub', and top-floor bunks room. 'It's decorated beautifully – a designer's dream.' Back at the pub, short menus offer 'interesting options, from macaroni cheese to delicious falafel and baba ghanoush'. A pigeon starter was 'a bit tough'; pan-fried hake with celeriac purée was enjoyed. A locally sourced breakfast is 'tiptop quality' with home-baked bread. (TS, and others)