‘From the outside, this hotel doesn’t look that special,’ writes our inspector, but within the whitewashed building in a quiet harbour village, it’s a different story, following a 'bonkers but beautiful' redesign by Russell Sage, under new owners The Glenmorangie Company. They’re part of Louise Vuitton Moët Hennessy, but that doesn't mean high prices: locals happily drop in for a cheap dram of Wee Beastie in the bar, where ‘a fishing boat hangs from the ceiling with nets glowing a fluorescent green’. Bedrooms, inspired by Islay legends and landscapes, are riotous fun or a minimalist’s fever dream. ‘Monster, felt like staying with the Addams Family – in a good way. The enormous Emperor four-poster is crafted from upcycled church pews with metal tendrils snaking around it. Fèis is a celebration of music, with headboard like a grand piano, drum bedside tables, bagpipes on the wall, and piano desk with violin light.’ You can eat casually in the bar, while in Signature Restaurant, highly creative menus might include Ardbeg smoked venison pie; cauliflower schnitzel with barrel-smoked cauliflower puree, capers and raisins. ‘I recommend the hand-dived scallops paired with Ardbeg Ten, followed by the freshest of local sea trout.’ After a great breakfast, hotel guests get a complimentary tour of Ardbeg’s distillery.