It's an indulgent experience staying in this sumptuous and seductive twin-gabled house adjacent to Royal Holyrood Park. Designed in 1687 by Sir William Bruce after he had finished the Palace of Holyrood House, it is only ten minutes' walk from Princes Street and adjacent to Royal Holyrood Park, yet feels like a secluded country estate thanks to its expansive grounds. Owned by James Thomson of The Witchery by the Castle, it retains a traditional, theatrical air, with kilt-wearing staff, fire-warmed sitting rooms and artwork and antiques at every turn. Glamorous interiors of brocade sofas, tapestries, art and curios are set against deep-red and purple colours; one drawing room has Cordovan leather on the walls, another 17th-century tapestries, while the bar contains quirky antler furniture. Bedrooms are rich and romantic with velvets, flowing curtains, darkly patterned wallpapers, beds heaped with cushions – some four-posters require a footstool – rococo mirrors and marble bathrooms. All spoil with robes, books, magazines, hair straighteners and Tunnock's tea cakes. A candlelit dinner might include classics such as chateaubriand for two and Prestonfield's fish pie, or seasonal dishes such as lemon thyme-glazed Guinea fowl.