An 18th-century watermill ‘in a beautiful setting’ on the River Wensum is these days a hip gastropub owned by Siobhan and Caitriona Peyton. Their brother, restaurateur Oliver Peyton OBE, will be familiar to Channel 5 viewers for a stint with sister-in-law Alex Polizzi on Peyton and Polizzi’s Restaurant Rescue, but the sisters have no need of rescue. Our inspectors, who popped in for tea – ‘a generous slice of delicious carrot cake’ – and a surreptitious shufti, were impressed by the ‘buzzy ambience, with plenty of willing staff’. Upstairs, rustic-chic beamed bedrooms are ‘alive with colour – vivid red, green, blue, all mixed together, and it works’. Each has an espresso machine, Roberts speakers, Norfolk Natural Living toiletries. One dual-aspect room has a view of the river and of the Hawk and Owl Trust’s nature reserve. You can eat in the bar (potted duck, beetroot and black bean burger…) or in one of the dining rooms, where Elliot Ketley’s menus include dishes such as Norfolk lamb belly, navarin of summer; wild mushroom linguine with summer leeks. ‘We would definitely return to stay and eat there.’