At 'a dream address on a square of Georgian houses overlooking a green', this former coaching inn 'feels busy, jolly, and as popular with the locals as with visiting guests'. There is an interesting choice of bedrooms, some in the old living quarters at the rear. The jewel in the Crown, a rooftop suite has a copper bath on a large balcony, though our inspectors were very happy with their more modest room, which had 'lots of interesting touches – a velvet headboard in the shape of an Indian cusp, wooden Venetian blinds, an antique mirrored door on the wall, three little beds for children on an ingeniously designed mezzanine'. Chef/proprietor Chris Coubrough 'clearly loves what he does and runs a happy, tight ship'. A dog-friendly dining area was 'packed with diners, and the odd snoozing Labrador'. In 'a large, light extension with book-lined shelves', a short, modern menu was 'appetising, with plenty of local fish'. For instance, pan-roasted cod on a warm salad of Parmentier potatoes, roast beetroot, green beans, pesto. 'Breakfast brought all the usual favourites, freshly squeezed orange juice, good scrambled eggs.'