‘If anything, it has improved since my last visit and it was pretty perfect then,’ writes an inspector, of this gastropub with rooms, now part of the thriving Beckford Group (see Beckford Arms, Tisbury, et al). Since nothing was broke, they didn’t need to fix it and ‘have kept the décor pretty much the same’, while broadening their appeal to villagers, with a dedicated area for drinkers and special Tuesday talks. ‘New manager Katie Butcher (from the group's Bath Arms) runs a superb team of happy, efficient staff. At lunchtime on a weekday, it was buzzing both inside and out.' Bedrooms blend antiques with modern artworks. Four of the largest, in the Coach House, have an in-room bath and a walk-in rainfall shower. All rooms have Bramley toiletries and homemade treats. There is now a guest lounge in an outbuilding, while in the restaurant, a short but enticing menu offers something for everyone. ‘My broad bean hummus with crackers was superb, and the Portland crab was fresh and tasty.' The fish pie with pastry top is a signature dish. The Beckford pubs have spawned many imitators, but nobody does it better. It's a pleasant walk from here to The Bath Arms and a short drive to the gardens at Stourhead.