In their 44th year at the helm, Martin and Nicola Ratcliffe cherish, tend and refresh their 16th-century roadside coaching inn, set against wooded slopes with the River Conwy just across the road. It has no boutique pretensions but abounds in charm, with low beams, wood-burner, copper and brasses. Each bedroom has its own style – maybe an exposed stone wall, a half-tester bed. A rear-facing four-poster room has a spa bath with shower and a balcony. There is a bar menu of light bites, while the restaurant serves dishes such as steamed mussels, garlic, parsley, white Burgundy marinière; rump steak, lamb’s kidney and Guinness pot pie; mushroom and pine nut stroganoff. A locally sourced full Welsh breakfast sets you up for exploring Snowdonia.