'A fun, relaxed' first hotel for the Beckford Group, 'this place feels neatly stitched into the fabric of a delightfully pretty village,' writes our inspector. It is set on a single-track road with a brook running by, in the Cranborne Chase Dark Sky Reserve. Locals are encouraged to use the hotel croquet court, and 'clearly rate the buzzy bar and restaurant'. Bedrooms occupy a 17th-century cum Victorian dower house, coach house and cottage. Our inspector's dual-aspect room over the entrance mixed contemporary comforts with ‘a smattering of antiques, a super-king bed, a plush green sofa, a shower room with Bramley toiletries. Other bedrooms were equally lovely. Each has an individual decanter of vermouth alongside yummy shortbread cookies.’ A trio of decanters sit on the sitting-room sideboard for you to help yourself, and at 5pm a gong sounds to mark sherry on the terrace – all complimentary. 'There is a huge generosity of spirit here.' At dinner in the Orangery, ‘I sent away the uber-tasty treacle bread because I didn’t want to fill up, and tucked into sardines, then monkfish with a generous portion of heritage carrots.’ Cheese came with ‘heavenly homemade digestives'. Breakfast brings kippers, mushrooms on toast, crumpets, the full English – no fresh OJ, but a bloody Mary station.